Daftar Isi

Pendahuluan
Rekomendasi Benang Coats untuk Jahitan yang Lembut dan Aman
Benang Coats untuk Jahitan yang Lembut dan Aman
Jenis Jahitan Setik dan Kelembutan Jahitan
Kekuatan Jahitan
Penggembungan dan Kelembutan Jahitan

Pendahuluan

Pencapaian dalam jahitan yang lebih lembut, rata dan aman adalah tujuan dari para ahli teknologi saat mereka mengembangkan pakaian olahraga, pakaian dalam dan pakaian umum lainnya dalam serangkaian kain berteknologi tinggi yang semakin meningkat.

To ensure that a garment will be fit for purpose and can withstand the strain from repeated wear throughout its life cycle, the designer must consider Kekuatan Jahitan, appearance, required stretch, bulkiness and Lembutness. Seams that come into direct contact with the skin should be secure and yet Lembut to avoid potential irritation to the skin.

The correct choice of sewing thread has an important bearing on this. Thread tenacity combined with the required elongation and stretch must be optimum to ensure secure well balanced seams. SeamLembut 120 (Tex 16) is particularly suitable for use in both Jarums and Pembentuk Jeratans, delivering the ultimate Lembutness with one thread choice.

Rekomendasi Benang Coats untuk Jahitan yang Lembut dan Aman

Options using SeamLembut - Lembut microfilament textured polyester

Lembut Seam Recommendations

Jenis Jahitan Setik	Posisi Benang	Cakupan Rendah Lembut	Cakupan Tinggi Lembut	Premium Super Lembut 140 / 160	Premium Super Lembut 120 / 160	Lembut Rata 120 / 120	Lembut Meregang
Coverseam 401, 406, 407	Jarum	Epic 120	Epic 120	SeamLembut 140	SeamLembut 120	SeamLembut 120	Eloflex 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 80	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 120	SeamLembut 120
Obras 504, 514	Jarum	Epic 120	Epic 120	SeamLembut 140	SeamLembut 120	SeamLembut 120	Eloflex 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 80	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 120	SeamLembut 120
Jahitan Rata 602, 605, 607	Jarum	Epic 120	Epic 120	SeamLembut 140	SeamLembut 120	SeamLembut 120	Eloflex 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 80	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 120	SeamLembut 120
	Spreader	Gramax 160	Gramax 80	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 160	SeamLembut 120	Gramax 160

Options using Surfilor - Lembut texturised nylon 

Lembut Seam Recommendations

Jenis Jahitan Setik	Posisi Benang	Lembut Menggembung	Lembut Rata	Lembut
Coverseam 401, 406, 407	Jarum	Epic 120	Surfilor FS 180	Epic 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	Surfilor 120	Surfilor FS 180	Surfilor 180
Obras 504, 514	Jarum	Epic 120	Surfilor FS 180	Epic 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	Surfilor 120	Surfilor FS 180	Surfilor 180
Jahitan Rata 602, 605, 607	Jarum	Epic 120	Surfilor FS 180	Epic 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	Surfilor 120	Surfilor FS 180	Surfilor 180
	Spreader	Surfilor 120	Surfilor FS 180	Surfilor 180

Options using Eloflex - Lembut and high in elasticity

Lembut Seam Recommendations - Eloflex

Jenis Jahitan Setik	Posisi Benang	Lembut Meregang
		Pilihan 1	Pilihan 2
Lockstitch 301	Jarum	Eloflex 120	Eloflex 120
	Gelendong	Eloflex 120	Eloflex 120
Coverseam 401, 406, 407	Jarum	Eloflex 120	Eloflex 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	Gramax 160	SeamLembut 160
Obras 504, 514	Jarum	Eloflex 120	Eloflex 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	Gramax 160	SeamLembut 160
Jahitan Rata 602, 605, 607	Jarum	Eloflex 120	Eloflex 120
	Pembentuk Jeratan	Gramax 160	SeamLembut 160
	Spreader	Gramax 160	Gramax 160

• For intimates / lingerie next-to-skin Lockstitch operations use same thread recommendation as for Coverseam
• For sportswear knit Lockstitch construction seams use Epic 120 in the Jarum and Gelendong
• For sportswear knit Lockstitch construction "Lembut Meregang" seams use Eloflex 120 in the Jarum and Gelendong
• For decorative seams, use Sylko 120 in top Spreader of Jahitan Rata

Definisi jahitan:

• Lembut Menggembung: Surfilor used for high bulk seam coverage
• Lembut Rata: Surfilor FS recommended to give flatter, smoother, neater seam where a bulk seam appearance is undesirable
• Premium Super Lembut: Luxurious seams, e.g. intimate apparel
• Lembut: Next-to-skin

Ukuran label benang yang ditunjukkan hanyalah contoh. Konstruksi kain dan pakaian yang berbeda mungkin memerlukan benang khusus untuk digunakan. Misalnya, kain yang lebih berat atau kain yang membutuhkan kekuatan tambahan dalam jahitan mungkin memerlukan benang yang lebih tebal/kuat. Penggunanya harus selalu memastikan sendiri bahwa benang tersebut telah memenuhi fungsi yang diinginkan. Silakan menghubungi perwakilan Coats terdekat untuk informasi lebih lanjut.

Benang Coats untuk Jahitan yang Lembut dan Aman

Overview of Coats Products

Merek	Gambar	Deskripsi
		A microfilament textured polyester thread that offers exceptional Lembutness and comfort, especially in 'next to the skin' seams. It offers excellent seam covering properties and extensibility for knitted and stretch fabrics.
		A continuous filament textured polyester thread. It is used on Obrasing and cover seaming machine Jarum and Pembentuk Jeratan threads to provide Lembutness and comfort.
		A versatile polyester-wrapped corespun Jarum thread with a polyester filament core where the fibre and filament combine to provide high tensile strength.
		Eloflex memiliki ketangguhan yang baik dan elastisitas tinggi. Benang ini cocok untuk digunakan dalam jahitan pada pakaian yang terbuat dari kain dengan sifat ekstensi tinggi.
		Coats Surfilor is an exceptionally Lembut texturised nylon sewing thread which produces flatter, smoother, neater seams with a luxurious feel. It is especially suitable for "next-to-skin" seams where a nylon thread is preferred.
		Surfilor FS has been specifically engineered for Jahitan Rata operations and is suitable for use both in the Jarum and in the Pembentuk Jeratan.

Jenis Jahitan Setik dan Kelembutan Jahitan

Lockstitch

The Gambar (Gambar 1) below shows the construction of a Lockstitch stitch (type 301) running through a seam.

Panah pada gambar 1 menunjukkan pembentukan jeratan yang bersatu di tengah kain. Formasi jeratan atau posisi dari pembentukan jeratan dalam jahitan adalah salah satu penyebab utama jahitan menjadi kasar atau makin kasar lagi.

Gambar 1

Red – Jarum thread 
Yellow – Gelendong thread

Loop formation (stitch joining in the middle of the fabric)

If you run your fingers on the top of this stitch line you would notice that the seam feeling is Lembut both on the underside of the fabric as well as the top.

This seam Lembutness is derived from the fabric and remains regardless of the thread type used in the Jarum and Gelendong.

Chainstitch

Fig 2 shows a Chainstitch stitch (type 401) running through a seam. The arrow shows the stitch formation on the bottom ply of fabric.

The Jarum thread goes through both plies of fabric and forms a loop on the underside of the fabric. The Pembentuk Jeratan thread then passes through this loop and forms a stitch.

Pembentukan jahitan setik di bagian bawah kain memiliki nuansa yang lebih kasar dibandingkan dengan bagian atas kain.

Gambar 2

Red – Jarum thread 
Yellow – Pembentuk Jeratan thread

If you run your fingers along the top of this stitch line, you would notice that the seam feeling is Lembut, similar to the Lockstitch stitch (type 301) in Gambar 1. The improved seam feeling on the top of the fabric is due to the lack of Jarum loops on the top side of the fabric.

• Jika kain mengalami penekanan penjahitan, ukuran dari jeratan ini akan mengecil dan nuansa jahitan akan meningkat saat benang dijahitkan pada kain.
• If the fabric does not compress then additional Jarum thread tension may need to be applied to reduce the size of this loop to improve seam feeling
• If the fabric cannot be compressed, the thread tightened, or the Pembentuk Jeratan thread loosened, then the loop will remain and It is here where Lembuter threads or bulkier threads will help to improve seam feeling
• Thicker bulkier threads can be used as an alternative to try and cover the Jarum loop at the bottom of fabric

Catatan: Sadarilah, bahwa penyesuaian terhadap ketegangan benang pada mesin jahit akan mengubah pemakaian benang di dalam pakaian.

Obras Jenis Jahitan Setik and seam Lembutness

It is uncommon to find issues relating to seam Lembutness on Obras seams as the Jarum loops are set neatly into the seam.

Figure 3 and 4 show Jenis Jahitan Setiks 514 and 504 respectively

The exception to this rule are Obras seams where a Chainstitch is run alongside the Obras seam such as Jenis Jahitan Setik 516 (Gambar 5).

If a Lembuter feel is required the use of textured or microfilament yarns are recommended for use in the Pembentuk Jeratans.

Gambar 5

Coverseam and Jahitan Rata

The most common Jenis Jahitan Setiks when trying to obtain flat neat seams that offer good elongation properties are Jenis Jahitan Setiks 602; 2 Jarum coverseam with top cover, Jenis Jahitan Setik 605; 3 Jarum coverseam with top cover and Jenis Jahitan Setik 607; 4 Jarum Jahitan Rata.

All these Jenis Jahitan Setiks produce a Jarum loop on the underside, which increases the chance of having harsher seams. The example shown below relates to flat seams but all three Jenis Jahitan Setiks have similar issues. The Jahitan Rata has the bigger problem as this produces four Jarum loops on the underside of the fabric.

Jahitan Rata

This type has four-Jarum threads (red), a single lower Pembentuk Jeratan thread (yellow), and a single Spreader/top cover thread (blue).

Figure 6 Jenis Jahitan Setik 607

Jenis Jahitan Setik 607 while suitable for seam elongation, may not always offer the Lembutest seams.

This Jenis Jahitan Setik uses over 30cm of thread for every 1cm of seam, almost half of this total amount going into the lower Pembentuk Jeratan thread. With this amount of yarn placed in the Pembentuk Jeratan expectations are that these seams are Lembut but even when the Lembutest sewing yarns are used in the Pembentuk Jeratan the sewn seam itself may remain rough to the touch.

This roughness is due in the main to the loops of Jarum thread that show on the underside of the material. Other reasons for roughness in the seams include but are not limited to, fabric, unbalanced stitching on seams produced under this Jenis Jahitan Setik uneven sewing while over sewing.

Figure 7 showing the Jarum loops produced in a Jahitan Rata

Methods used to improve seam Lembutness on Coverseam and Jahitan Rata Jenis Jahitan Setiks.

Set/adjust the Jarum thread tensions so that the Jarum threads bed into the fabric allowing the bulked Pembentuk Jeratan yarn to rise above or become level with the Jarum thread. The result is a Lembuter seam.

Kepedulian sangat diperlukan bila menggunakan metode di atas untuk memastikan apakah pakaian masih sesuai tujuan. Sangat disarankan bahwa pemeriksaan kualitas dilakukan setelah penyesuaian ketegangan untuk memastikan bahwa peregangan pakaian telah cukup untuk memenuhi kebutuhan.

Tighter Jarum tensions reduce seam elongation that may result in the Jarum threads cracking when fabrics are pulled.

Gambar 8

Seam test identifying flat seam Jarum loops in a sewn seam:

• Place the sewn seam on a flat surface with the Pembentuk Jeratan yarn facing up
• Jalankan kuku jari telunjuk Anda di sepanjang jahitan
• If you hear no noise then the Jarum thread has bedded into the fabric
• If you hear a rumbling noise then the Jarum loop is above the Pembentuk Jeratan yarn and the rumbling sound is your finger hitting these Jarum loops as it passes over

Lembut Seam Solution

One simple solution to ensure Lembuter seams against the skin when using coverseam or Jahitan Rata Jenis Jahitan Setiks.

Sew the seam inside out, so that the Pembentuk Jeratan thread is on the outside of the completed garment and the upper thread/Spreader thread is underneath against the skin.

Gambar 9

Why does this feel Lembuter? There are no Jarum loops on the upper surface of this Jenis Jahitan Setik and as a result, the seam is instantly Lembuter.

Another solution to help obtain Lembuter seams while maintaining seam elongation is to loosen the two middle Jarum tensions (Fig 10). Loosen tension so they lay as longer loops in the seam. At the same time, tighten (as much as possible) the two outside stitch rows, trying to bed these into the fabric. This coupled with a loose Pembentuk Jeratan tension improves seam Lembutness (seam elongation checks are required to ensure that the tension applied to the outside Jarums does not restrict elongation).

Gambar 10

General guide to seam Lembutness

• The use of a Lembuter bulkier yarn will in most case improves seam Lembutness
• Sewing tension can be critical for Lembut seams and if replicating Lembut seams on numerous machines a tension meter is recommended

Kekuatan Jahitan

Normally the strength of the thread used to stitch a seam should match the Kekuatan Jahitan. However, in seams that stretch a safety factor should be built in to allow for the variation in seam extension during normal wear. It is also important that the Jarum thread grips the fabric and yet provides the Lembutness required.

Penggembungan dan Kelembutan Jahitan

The Lembutness of a seam will depend on the choice of sewing thread and the fabric that is being sewn. For fabrics that are compressible and contain elastane or Lycra, it is important that there is enough thread cover on the seam to allow it to stretch and yet retain its Lembutness. The volume of thread cover is referred to as bulkiness of the seam.

Seams sewn in the warp direction of some fabrics will have a different feel to those sewn in the weft direction. In the vertical warp direction the Jarum thread will bed into the fabric and the seam will be flatter whereas across the weft the stitch may sit on the surface and be easier to feel.

Untuk memastikan agar jahitan tidak menonjol di dalam jahitan benang jahit harus sangat halus. Benang yang lebih tebal dapat meninggalkan kesan pada kain sebagai contoh selama penekanan dan penyetrikaan. Akan tetapi kekuatan dan keamanan jahitan harus tetap dipertahankan.

Please contact your local Sales Office to find out more about secure and Lembut seams.