Daftar Isi

Pendahuluan
Karakteristik dari Berbagai Jenis Benang Bordir
Benang Bordir Manakah yang Terbaik??
Memilih Backing dan Bisban (Facing) yang Tepat Untuk Setiap Pekerjaan Bordir?
Apa yang Harus Saya Lakukan dalam Memperkirakan Kebutuhan Benang Bordir??
Bagaimana Cara Saya untuk Memperkirakan Jumlah Tusukan Jarum??
Jenis-Jenis Jahitan Bordir
Daftar Periksa Bordir
Masalah-Masalah Umum pada Penjahitan Bordir; Penyebab yang Mungkin dan Solusinya
Rekomendasi Benang untuk Bordir

Pendahuluan

Setiap produk benang yang akan memberikan jahitan luar biasa pada mesin jahit adalah jenis Jahitan (Stitch) 301 dan 304, yang biasanya memberikan hasil yang bagus pada aplikasi bordir.

Ketika mengingnkan tampilan bordir yang berkilau, jenis benang yang paling banyak dipilih adalah:

• Benang poliester trilobal filamen panjang
• Benang katun mercerised

Ketika menginginkan tampilan bordir yang matt, benang untuk pakaian dapat digunakan

• Benang wrapped poly core
• Benang katun wrapped poly core

If apparel sewing threads are used for embroidery these need to be carefully tested to avoid garment issues. These threads are developed for industrial sewing machines where speeds can exceed 4,000 rpm. The quality and quantity of lubricant used in these sewing threads is different to that of embroidery threads and helps to minimise the friction and abrasiveness while the machine is running at these higher speeds. If apparel sewing threads were to be used for embroidery the lubricant can potentially migrate from the thread and stain the fabric. The lubricant used for embroidery threads is lower and more tightly controlled to allow high performance, outstanding quality, and to minimise the risk of stains.

Poliester Trilobal and Rayon continuous filament embroidery threads are now in widespread use all around the world.

Polyester threads, in particular, are now becoming more popular because of their ability to with­stand more demanding washing and dry cleaning performance standards. Polyester has advantages over Rayon in terms of superior dry and wet strength, Ketahanan Terhadap Abrasi and shade fastness / colour retention.

Coats provide an extensive, creative product range in embroidery and embellishment threads. Metallic sewing threads are a popular modern choice, especially suitable for decorative stitching on all kinds of denim wear and provides a brilliant appearance for special effects. Whether, glow in the dark, reflective or matt effect embroidery, it is your choice.

Karakteristik dari Berbagai Jenis Benang Bordir

*Unless specifically dyed with dyestuffs which exhibit minimum colour loss or colour change when exposed to bleach.

Benang Bordir Manakah yang Terbaik??

Poliester Trilobal threads have significantly higher breaking strength as compared to Rayon and can be run at sewing speeds exceeding 800 Jahitan Per Minute (SPM). With Rayon threads, machine speeds cannot usually exceed 600 SPM. As a result trilobal polyester threads greatly enhance machine productivity.

The above table is to be used as a guide. In most cases, a garment manufacturer will be called upon to achieve a combination of objectives (e.g., sheen, strength, Ketahanan Terhadap Abrasi, etc.). In such cases, the appropriate thread which satisfies all the major criteria will have to be chosen.

Memilih Backing dan Bisban (Facing) yang Tepat Untuk Setiap Pekerjaan Bordir?

Hampir semua yang Anda bordir akan memerlukan backing dan bisban (facing) atau kombinasi keduanya.

• Backing digunakan untuk membantu menguatkan kain seperti saat dijahit. Backings akan terus mempertahankan desain setelah dijahit.
• Facing digunakan pada kain dengan sengkelit tinggi, seperti korduroi dan beberapa knits. Facing membantu memadatkan sengkelit sehingga jahitannya tidak lenyap di antara keduanya, menjaga agar sengkelit dan tangkai kain tidak menonjol melebihi disain.

Stabilitas kain garmen, kerapatan jahitan, warna, panjang jahitan, kecepatan jahitan, ukuran bordir dan kestabilan desain hanyalah beberapa variabel yang dapat mempengaruhi pemilihan backing.

Fabric stretch is probably the most important factor in selecting backings. The backing must be stable enough to prevent movement during the stitching process. A fabric's structure (weave of knit pattern) is apt to be a better indicator of stability than weight alone. Backings are available in different weights. Please check with a backing supplier to ensure you are making the right choice for the fabric being embroidered.

Jenis yang paling umum dari backing bordir adalah:

• Cutaways backing - untuk kain yang licin
• tear-aways backing - untuk kain yang stabil
• Peel and Stick backing - untuk untuk kain yang sulit disekap
• Hydrostick backing - untuk kain yang mengandung lycra, elastin, atau spandek

Apa yang Harus Saya Lakukan dalam Memperkirakan Kebutuhan Benang Bordir??

Benang Jarum

Pengujian menunjukkan bahwa rata-rata Anda dapat menggunakan sekitar 6,0 meter benang per 1.000 jahitan bordir. Rata-rata ini akan dipengaruhi oleh panjang jahitan, jarum dan tegangan gelendong dan ketebalan kain.

Benang Gelendong

An estimate of 2.3 metres of Benang Gelendong per 1,000 Jahitan is a Bagur starting point. This assumes that, like most embroiderers, you use undyed Benang Gelendongs. Benang Gelendong tensions are tighter than Benang Jarum tensions.

Bagaimana Cara Saya untuk Memperkirakan Jumlah Tusukan Jarum??

Estimating or guessing at potential stitch counts in digitised embroidery designs is just that - 'guessing'. It can be done and there are a few methods on how to estimate accurately, but there is no foolproof way of knowing prior to digitising how many Jahitan an embroidery will have.

• You can purchase a plastic see-through grid with 1 " blocks. Place this grid over the artwork and count the number of 1" blocks that the grid covers. Then from a chart that accompanies the grid you can see how many Jahitan per 1" block. This method provides an estimate as it does not take into consideration the type of Jahitan being used within the design.
• Or, you can multiply the length by the width of a design. Next multiply that number by 2. This is equal to the amount of 1,000 Jahitan. For example: 1 ½" (length) x 2" (width)= 3"; then 3 X 2 = 6. This particular design would have 6 - 1,000 Jahitan or 6,000 Jahitan.
• Different stitch types will have different stitch counts. In general a square inch of a solid block of colour will have roughly 1,250 Jahitan of fill. A linear inch of a satin will have 200 Jahitan while a linear inch of running will have 50 Jahitan.
• Lettering a standard block without serifs at¼" tall will have roughly 100 Jahitan per letter, while ½" lettering will be double. If the font is a serif type, there will be approximately 125 Jahitan per¼" letter and then 250 Jahitan for a ½" letter.

Bagan ini menentukan jumlah jahitan per huruf pada ketinggian huruf yang berbeda. Misalnya, satu huruf dengan tinggi 5mm memiliki sekitar 90 jahitan. Dua huruf dengan tinggi 5mm memiliki perkiraan gabungan total 180 jahitan.

Jenis-Jenis Jahitan Bordir

There are only three types of Jahitan you need to consider in computerised embroidery:

• Fill Stitch - Multiple lines of walking Jahitan that fill an entire area; blocks of coloured areas
• Satin or Column Stitch - A series of zig zag Jahitan that form a letter, line or shape (1 mm - 7mm); such as most lettering or borders wider than 1 mm.
• Running or Walking Stitch - A single, straight stitch that provides detail. Used for outlining small items and widths less than 1 mm or simply to walk from one part of the design to the other.

Daftar Periksa Bordir

What does it take to make a Bagur embroidery?
Berikut ini adalah daftar item yang perlu diperiksa sambil memastikan kualitas bordir Anda.

• Fleksibilitas
  Angkat twist bordir dan gulung; lihat bagaimana hasilnya. Apakah lentur??
• Pendaftaran
  Bordir harus sesuai dan benar-benar sejajar, tanpa celah antara batas.
• Puckering (Kerutan)
  Puckering (Kerutan) in and around the design does not belong. The fabric should be smooth all around the embroidered area. Puckering (Kerutan) can be caused by a tight thread or fabric tension; too wide satin Jahitan; a dull needle; an unstable fabric (none or wrong choice of backing) and structural jamming.
• Bagur Stitch Density
  Jahitan should be tight and hold together. ff there is a lot of show through between Jahitan or you can pull them with fingernail; they are too long and will degrade quickly when the garment is laundered.
• Menyeimbangkan Kerapatan Jahitan
  
  Each thread has a unique linear density and has the ability to cover a piece of fabric in a different way. The same thread will cover different fabrics slightly differently, so if you are using the same digitised design on different fabrics, it is important to test the design on the particular fabrics.
  If the stitch density is too high you may experience thread breaks. If the stitch density is too low then 'gaps' and 'grins' will appear and the fabric colour shows through the embroidered area.
  Hal yang harus diingat:
  
  • Using a combination of underlay and cover stitching uses far less Jahitan than using cover stitching alone therefore always use underlay for large fill areas.
  • Using the correct stitch density will result in a significant saving of unnecessary Jahitan; an area sewn at a density of 0.55mm uses 20% less Jahitan than a density of 0.40mm.
  • Each fabric will have a slightly different ability to absorb Jahitan from a particular thread.

• Tegangan Seimbang
  If there is Puckering (Kerutan) or pulling of the material around the design, look for proper tension (a balance of top thread and Benang Gelendong). Turn the garment over to see if there is a balance. You should see 1/3% white Jahitan in the centre and a balance of coloured Jahitan on both sides of the white Jahitan. Too much bobbin will also show on top of the design. If you do not see a balance, tensions are not set correctly.
• Finishing yang benar
  Check to see if threads are all clipped and any topping material is removed from the design. Check the backing to see if it properly supports the embroidery, and the excess backing has been removed. Cutaway backings should be clipped at a uniform distance from the edge so as not to look hacked off and should not extend over a half inch or more from the embroidery.

Masalah-Masalah Umum pada Penjahitan Bordir; Penyebab yang Mungkin dan Solusinya

Rekomendasi Benang untuk Bordir

Please contact your local Sales Office to find out more about our embroidery thread options.