Know About Textile Fibres

Bulletin Post 09

Fibre Classification
Natural Fibres
Man-made Fibres
Textile Fibre Parameters
Fibre Properties – Comparison

Introduction

Textiles have such an important bearing on our daily lives that everyone should know something about the basics of fibres and their properties.

Textile fibres are used for a wide range of applications such as covering, warmth, personal adornment and even to display personal wealth.

Textile technology has come a long way in meeting these requirements. A basic knowledge of textile fibres will facilitate an intelligent appraisal of fibre brands and types and help in identifying the right quality for the application.

This bulletin covers various textile fibres and the properties that are important for a suitable textile application.

Fibre Classification

Textile fibres can be broadly classified into two categories:

Natural fibres
Man-made fibres

Natural Fibres

Natural fibres are subdivided further, as outlined below, by their origin.

Table below when available.

Fibre name	Source	Composition
Vegetable
Cotton	Cotton boll	Cellulose
Kapok	Kapok tree	Cellulose
Linen	Flax stalk	Cellulose
Jute	Jute stalk	Cellulose
Hemp	Hemp or Abaca	Cellulose
Ramie	Rhea and China	Cellulose
Sisal	Agave leaf	Cellulose
Coir	Coconut husk	Cellulose
Pina	Pineapple leaf	Cellulose
Animal
Wool	Sheep	Protein
Silk	Silkworms	Protein
Hair	Hair bearing animals	Protein
Mineral
Asbestos	Varities of rock	Silicate of Magnesium and Calcium

Man-made Fibres

Man-made fibres are subdivided as shown below with their various compositions and origin.

Cellulosic
Fibre Name	Source
Rayon	Cotton linters or wood
Acetate	Cotton linters or wood
Tri-acetate	Cotton linters or wood
Non-Cellulosic Polymers
Nylon	Aliphatic polyamide
Aramid	Aromatic polyamid
Polyester	Dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid
Acrylic	Acrylonitrile
Modacrylic	Acrylonitrile
Spandex	Polyurethene
Olefin	Ethylene or propylene
Vinyon	Vinyl chloride
Saran	Vinylidene chloride
Novoloid	Phenol based navolac
Polycarbonate	Carbonic acid (polyester derivative)
Fluorocarbon	Tetrafluoroethylene
Protein
Azlon	Corn, soybean, etc.
Rubber
Rubber	Natural or synthetic rubber
Metallic
Metal	Aluminum, silver, gold, stainless steel
Mineral
Glass	Silica sand, limestone, other minerals
Ceramic	Aluminium, silica
Graphite	Carbon

1. Natural Fibres

Cotton

Cotton, the natural fibre most widely used in apparel, grows in a boll around the seeds of cotton plants. A single fibre is an elongated cell that is a flat, twisted, hollow, ribbon-like structure.

Cotton plant

Characteristics

Fair to good strength
Very little elasticity
Less resilient and prone to wrinkling
Comfortable and soft feel
Good absorbency
Conducts heat well
Damaged by insects, mildew, rot and moths
Weakened by extended sunlight exposure

Applications

Widely used in number of textile products
Commonly used in woven and knitted apparel
Home textile – bath towels, bath robes, bed covers etc.
Used as a blend with other fibres as rayon, polyester, spandex etc.

Linen

Linen, one of the most expensive natural fibres, is made from the flax plant. It is labour-intensive to produce, hence produced in small quantities. However linen fabric is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.

Cricket ball

It is composed of 70% cellulose and 30% pectin, ash, woody tissue and moisture.

Characteristics

Strongest vegetable fibre
Poor elasticity, hence wrinkles easily
Relatively smooth, becomes softer when washed
Highly absorbent
Good conductor of heat and feels cool
Lustrous
More brittle, constant creasing in the sharp folds, tends to break
Damaged by mildew, perspiration and bleach
Resistant to moths and carpet beetles

Applications

Apparel - suits, dresses, skirts, shirts etc.
Home and commercial furnishing items – table cloths, dish towels, bed sheets, wallpaper / wall coverings, window treatments etc.
Industrial products - luggage, canvas etc.
Used as blend with cotton

Wool

Wool fibre grows from the skin of sheep and is a relatively coarse and crimped fibre with scales on its surface. It is composed of protein. The fibre appearance varies depending on the breed of the sheep. Finer, softer and warmer fibres tend to be with more and smoother scales. Thicker, less warm fibres have fewer and rougher scales. Normally, the better wool fibres with finer scales are duller in appearance than the poorer quality fibres which have fewer scales.

Dyed new wool

Characteristics

Crimped in appearance
Elastic
Hygroscopic, readily absorbs moisture
Ignites at a higher temperature than cotton
Lower rate of flame spread, heat release and combustion heat
Resistant to static electricity

Applications

Clothing – jackets, suits, trousers, sweaters, hats etc.
Blankets, carpets, felt and upholstery
Horse rugs, saddle cloths

Silk

Silk is a fine, continuous strand unwound from the cocoon of a moth caterpillar known as the silkworm. It is composed of protein. It is very shiny due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles.

Silk pillows

Characteristics

Lustrous, smooth and soft texture and not slippery
Lightweight, strong, but can lose up to 20% of its strength when wet
Elasticity is moderate to poor. If elongated, it remains stretched
Can be weakened if exposed to too much sunlight
May be affected by insects, especially if left dirty
Can regain up to 11% of its moisture

Applications

Shirts, ties, blouses, formal dresses, high-fashion clothes
Lingerie, pyjamas, robes, dress suits and sun dresses
Many furnishing applications
Upholstery, wall coverings, and wall hangings

Other Natural Fibres

Jute

Jute is taken from a tall plant of the same name and it is easy to cultivate and harvest. It is the cheapest fibre and is used in great quantities.

Characteristics

It is not durable as it deteriorates rapidly when exposed to moisture
Less strength
Cannot be bleached to make it pure white due to lack of strength

Applications

Binding threads for carpets, coarse and cheap fabrics, heavy bagging etc.

Kapok

It is a white hair-like fibre obtained from the seed capsules of plants and trees called Ceiba Pentandra grown in Java and Sumatra (Indonesia), Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, Northern South America and tropical West Africa.

It is called silk cotton due to its high lustre which is equal to that of silk.

Characteristics

Smooth texture
Very lustrous
Weak
Short fibre length
Resistant to moisture, dries quickly when wet

Applications

Mattresses, cushions, upholstered furniture

Ramie

A woody fibre resembling flax and it is also known as rhea and China grass. It is taken from a tall flowering plant.

Embroidered fabric and alcazar cones

Characteristics

Stiff
More brittle
Lustrous

Applications

Canvas, upholstery, clothing, etc.

2. Man-made Fibres

2.1. Man-made (Regenerated)

Cellulosic

They are derived either from the cellulose of the cell walls of short cotton fibres that are called linters or, more frequently from pine wood. There are three types of man made cellulosic fibres: Rayon, acetate and tri-acetate.

Rayon

Rayon [link to Raylon] is made from naturally occurring polymers that simulate natural cellulosic fibres. It is neither a truly synthetic fibre nor a truly natural fibre.

There are two varieties of Rayon; viscose and high wet modulus (HWM). These in turn are produced in a number of types to provide certain specific properties.

Characteristics

Soft, smooth and comfortable
Naturally high in lustre
Highly absorbent
Durability and shape retention is low, especially when wet
Low elastic recovery
Normally weak, but HWM rayon is much stronger, durable and has good appearance retention.

Applications

Apparel - blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, suits, neck ties etc.
Furnishing items - bedspreads, bed sheets, blankets, window treatments, upholstery etc.
Industrial uses e.g. medical surgery products, non-woven products, tyre cord etc.
Other uses - feminine hygiene products, diapers, towels etc.

Acetate

Acetate consists of a cellulose compound identified as acetylated cellulose – a cellulose salt. Hence it possesses different qualities compared to rayon.

Acetate is thermoplastic and can be formed into any shape by application of pressure combined with heat. Acetate fibres have good shape retention.

Characteristics

Thermoplastic
Good drapability
Soft, smooth and resilient
Wicks and dries quickly
Lustrous appearance
Weak, rapidly loses strength when wet, must be dry-cleaned
Poor abrasion resistance

Applications

Primarily in apparel - blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, suits, neck ties, etc.
Used in fabrics such as satins, brocades, taffetas, etc.

Tri-acetate

Tri-acetate consists of acetylated cellulose that retains acetic groupings, when it is being produced as triacetate cellulose. It is a thermoplastic fibre and is more resilient than other cellulosic fibres

Characteristics

Thermoplastic
Resilient
Shape retentive and wrinkle resistant
Shrink resistant
Easily washable, even at higher temperatures
Maintains creases and pleats well

Applications

Primarily apparel
Used in clothing where crease / pleat retention is important e.g. skirts and dresses
Can be used with polyester to create shiny apparel

2.2. Man-made – Non-cellulosic

Polymer Fibres

This group of fibres is distinguished by being synthesised or created from various elements into larger molecules that are called linear polymers.

The molecules of each particular compound are arranged in parallel lines in the fibre. This arrangement of molecules is called molecular orientation.

The properties of such fibres are dependent on their chemical composition and kinds of molecular orientation.

Nylon

In nylon, the fibre forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. The elements carbon, oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen are combined by chemical processes into compounds which react to form long-chain molecules, chemically known as polyamides and are then formed into fibres. There are several forms of nylon. Each depends upon the chemical synthesis.

Outdoor Goods

They are: Nylon 4; 6; 6.6; 6.10; 6.12; 8; 10; and 11.

Characteristics

Highly resilient
High elongation and elasticity
Very strong and durable
Excellent abrasion resistance
Thermoplastic
Has the ability to be very lustrous, semi-lustrous or dull
Resistant to insects, fungi, mildew and rot

Applications

Apparel – pantyhose, stockings, leggings, etc.
Home furnishing
Industrial applications - parachutes, tyre cords, ropes, airbags, hoses, etc.

Polyester

In polyester, the fibre forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, but not restricted to substituted terapthalate units and para-substituted hydroxybenzoate units.

In producing such fibres, the basic elements of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are polymerised. Variations are possible in the methods of production, in the combination of ingredients and in the ultimate molecular structures of the fibre forming substance.

Characteristics

Thermoplastic
Good strength
Hydrophobic (non absorbent)

Applications

Apparel – woven and knits, shirts, pants, jackets, hats etc.
Home furnishing – bed sheets, blankets, upholstered furniture, cushioning material
Industrial uses – conveyor belts, safety belts, tyre reinforcement

Spandex

The fibre forming substance used to produce spandex is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane. Variations are possible when producing this fibre.

The basic elements of nitrogen, hydrogen, carbon and oxygen are synthesised with other substances to ethyl ester compounds in polymer chains of soft segments or sections that provide stretch and harder segments that hold the chain together.

Trademarks of three spandex fibres are Cleer-span, Glospan and Lycra.

Characteristics

Highly elastic
Comfortable
High shape retention
Durable

Applications

Never used alone, but always blended with other fibres
Apparel and clothing items with stretch for comfort and fit
Hosiery
Foundation garments
Swimwear, athletic, aerobic apparel
Lingerie, leggings and socks
Shaped garments e.g. bra cups
Gloves

Acrylic

In acrylics, the fibre forming substance is any long chain polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units. Using complicated processes, carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen, the basic elements are synthesised with small amounts of other chemicals into larger polymer combinations. Variations are possible in the methods of production, in the combination of ingredients and in the ultimate molecular structures of the fibre forming substance.

Characteristics

Soft, warm handling characteristics similar to wool
Resilient
Shape retentive

Applications

Apparel
Home furnishing

3. Man-made – Protein Fibres

The protein from such products as corn and milk has been processed chemically and converted into fibre. However, such fibres are not commercially successful.

4. Man-made – Rubber Fibres

The fibre forming substance is comprised of natural and synthetic rubber. The treated rubber is produced in strands, so that the cross-section is either round or square and the longitudinal surface is relatively smooth.

5. Man-made – Metallic Fibres

These fibres are composed of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal. These fibres are usually produced in flat, narrow, smooth strips which possess high lustre.

Iridescent

Applications

Decorative yarns in apparel and home furnishing items.

6. Man-made – Mineral Fibres

Various minerals have been manufactured into glass, ceramic and graphite fibres having prescribed properties for specific uses.

Glass

Although glass is a hard and inflexible material, it can be made into a fine, translucent textile fibre that has an appearance and feel of silk.

Natural minerals such as silica sand, limestone, soda ash, borax, boric acid, feldspar and fluorspar have been fused under very high temperatures into glass which is processed into a fibre.

Characteristics

Inert
Highly flame resistant

Applications

Heat resistant industrial applications

Textile Fibre Parameters

Fibrous materials should possess certain properties to become a suitable textile raw material. Properties which are essential for acceptance as a suitable raw material may be classified as ‘primary properties’. The other properties which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and its use may be classified as ‘secondary properties’.

Primary Properties

1. Length

2. Tenacity (strength)

3. Flexibility

4. Cohesion

5. Uniformity of properties

Secondary Properties

1. Physical shape

2. Specific gravity (influence weight, cover etc.)

3. Moisture regain and absorption (comfort, static electricity etc.)

4. Elastic character

5. Thermo plasticity (softening point and heat - set character)

6. Dyeability

7. Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, micro-organisms and environmental conditions

8. Flammability

9. Lustre