Swimwear

Disclaimer

The main factors to consider are:

• The demands of the stitching operation
• The amount of load / demand placed on the seam
• The type and weight of fabric being sewn

Over recent years the fabrics used in the manufacture of swim wear have become lighter in weight. This has seen thread selection change to the use of finer threads. Historically, swimwear garments would have the load bearing elements of the seams sewn in Tex 40. This has since moved through Tex 35 and nowadays Tex 30 is in common use.

Some swimwear manufacturers still have a preference for a slightly heavier thread than Tex 30 and in these case we would recommend Epic Tex 35 to replace Epic Tex 30 in the above table.

With high stretch garments such as swimwear the importance of maintaining adequate stitch ratings cannot be over stressed. There should be enough thread engineered into the seam so that the required seam elongation is achieved, without over stressing the thread in the seam.

In order to avoid damage to the fabric during the sewing of knitted garments, ball point needles are generally recommended.

Stitch type 503 has been recommended for the application of the elastic to the swimsuit. The use of this stitch type offers a number of advantages over the use of stitch type 504 in this application, they are:

• Higher seam elongation, especially if Gramax Tex 18 is used on both elements, as suggested.
• Reduced seam cost, due to lower thread consumption.
• Finer seams, resulting in improved garment comfort.

Coverseaming on swimsuits mainly involves the following stitch types:

• 406 - Twin needle coverseam
• 607 - Flatseam, Four needle coverseam with a top covering thread

Where stitch type 607 Flatseam is involved the thread recommended for top covering is Epic Tex 30 or 35. This thread can be subjected to severe abrasion when the garment is in use and therefore the product often used.

The sewing thread recommendations laid out above are intended as a guide to aid the construction of garments with good quality seams. As garments of the same generic type differ in terms of fabric substrate and construction, and both making up methods and post make up processing can greatly vary, these recommendations should be viewed as a good starting point for thread selection.

Garment specific recommendations for thread and needle selection as well as accurate thread consumption figures and onsite technical support can be obtained by contacting your local Coats' office.